Ive narrowed it down to two M4s! Please help!

Im looking at
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=33419

or

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_44_218&products_id=32676

The first one for sure its an awesome deal you get and installed tight bore barrel,metal teeth piston and steal gears and metal body.with those internal's it will last very long and can stand a 11.1lipo.

The top one is a very good deal, but I have never heard or dealt with AIMS. From I have heard about there metal bodies is that they feel cheap, but they work. Essentially, you are getting more bang for your buck. I would recommend reshimming the gun before running it to hard. Clone shimming isn't the best and can mean a broken gear or stripped piston.

The second one is very good as well. It is a polymer body and has reliable internals. Externally, it will be just as durable though even with the polymer body, but it won't have the same weight/feel as metal would. ASGI showed them dropping the 2nd rifle from heights of 8 ft a couple times and the rifle was perfectly fine.

If you go with the 1st one, just get a good shim job before running it to hard. If something breaks, it is really inexpensive to get a part replaced for the version 2 gearbox.

As far as G&G is concerned, I have the G&G Commando and I tell you it is the best and smoothest working gun I have, and I have quite a few brands and styles. Eventhough the one I have is a higher line, I think the internals are probably (i don't know) just as reliable in the Combat Machine. I love my G&G.

Yeah im leaning more towards the G&G only because I have really heard nothing but good reviews for their guns. And I have never heard a lot of the other brand even though I am new. I personally, after reading these, believe the best route for me would be to get the G&G and eventually upgrade to a tightbore barrel. I dont know if I will upgrade the spring, and even if I wanted to I dont know if id have to upgrade other internals and I dont even know which spring to use for now i just want to get my M4 so I can actually go out and play

Oh and any opinions on a good tightbore barrel would be nice as well. I hear good things about Mad Bull. But who knows? Not this guy!

The tight bore barrel makes it very accurate.I would go with the first one.Ive never even came upon that gun until now i might get that my self.Its a steal.

Oh and one last question.... earlier there was something said about "shimming" or a "shim job". WTF is that lol

you have 3 gears. the peices that space them from the gear box are the shims and the bushings/ball bearings. The gears should NEVER rub against each other as they spin. remember, we are dealing in measurements of .01 mm here. the shims help you space out the gears from the gear box in a manner that the only place of contact that the gears have are the teeth and the axels they have that touch the bushings/ball bearings (which ever you have). a prper shim job, no pun intended, achieves this. thus the gears run a lot smoother and there are less chanses of a gear gettin stuck or going out of place. and transfers torque more efficiently.

Senator Snipes wrote:

Oh and any opinions on a good tightbore barrel would be nice as well. I hear good things about Mad Bull. But who knows? Not this guy!

I have had really good experiences with both Edgi and Madbull. I would suggest the Madbull 6.03mm tightbore since you are playing the average assault role and the 6.01mm is unecessary. The 6.03mm will be better to maintain, and will give you sufficient accuracy and range. The run like $30 to $35 depending on length.

I also suggest using .25g bbs. The heavier bbs retain their momentum longer, and therefore travel longer than lighter weight bbs. They also travel more accurately since heaver bbs are less affected by wind. I haven't had a problem with either Matrix or Airsoft Elite bbs. Usually $10-$13 depending on deals.

Lastly, a new bucking and spacer when you get the new tightbore barrel. The spacer makes contact with the bucking, and the bucking puts backspin on the bb to spin the bb. This is more consistent with the correct bucking/nub combo. I would recommend the SCS nub and Systema Bucking. The scs nub runs like $6 and the bucking runs about $6.

Overall, get the gun and run it first. The accuracy will suck out of the box. Before adjusting the hop-up, clean the barrel with a piece of cotton rag and the included cleaning/dejamming rod. Then put about 500 to 700 rounds through the rifle. Then begin to adjust the hop-up and sight the rifle in. You will see the utmost performance at this point in the rifle. Play with it and see what you like, then after a couple weekends look into the upgrades above. That is all from personal experience.

Hope this helps you, and good luck with your new gun purchase.

go with the G&G

yo whats your take on the G&G gr15 raider?

i was thinking of transforming it into an m16

A lot of very helpful information McSourmonkey and Ace thank you very much. Ive decided to go with the G&G and just do upgrades to it since I have only heard great things about its reliablitity and the other one (as good as the deal is) sounds kinda sketchy to me. When I go to do upgrades I hope someone can give me a hand because I am not familiar with internals of an airsoft gun! Ill be willing to pay! I just have to take care of this bullsht ticket I got last night before I buy my gun. My own people turned on me!